The Oscars have once again shone a spotlight on the art of hair and makeup, with the team behind the Japanese period drama 'Kokuho' taking home an award for their extraordinary work. What makes this particularly interesting is the journey of the film's hair and makeup artists, who brought the 400-year-old aesthetics of Kabuki theater to life on the big screen. This is a story of dedication, precision, and the power of art to transcend time and culture.
Naomi Hibino, one of the artists, initially felt overwhelmed by the nomination, attributing it to the collective efforts of countless artists who have dedicated their lives to the traditional performing art form. Kokuho, directed by Lee Sang-il, tells the 50-year story of two kabuki theater performers, blending backstage melodrama, succession drama, and a making-of-an-artist narrative into a sweeping meditation on ambition, beauty, and sacrifice.
The film's immersive kabuki stage sequences, captured in mesmerizing closeups by cinematographer Sofian El Fani, have been credited with reviving Japan's theatrical box office and reigniting public fascination with the centuries-old art form. The film's three-person hair and makeup team — Toyokawa Kyoko, Hibino Naomi, and Nishimatsu Tadashi — were surprise recipients of a nomination in the best makeup and hairstyling category.
The film's success in Japan was largely due to the faithful recreation of Kabuki theater's unique aesthetics. Kabuki, a 400-year-old popular theater tradition that emerged in early 17th-century Japan, is a rigorously codified art form that blends acting and dance with vocal and musical performance. The film's hair and makeup team faced the daunting task of translating Kabuki's visual language onto the film actors' faces, and the elaborate wigs that complete and enliven the iconic stage aesthetic.
Hibino, who had spent 30 years working in the quiet, cloistered world of traditional Japanese dance, had to adapt a centuries-old craft designed for the stage to the technical demands of cinema. She had to ensure that the makeup looked good for about 10 hours, which was a significant challenge. The team also had to recreate the elaborate wigs that complete and enliven the iconic stage aesthetic, which required the expertise of veteran craftsman Tadashi Nishimatsu.
The film's success in Japan was not just due to the generational saga but also the faithful recreation of Kabuki theater's unique aesthetics. The team's work has sparked a resurgence of public interest in Kabuki theater, with major traditional theater houses across the country reporting surges in attendance, even among younger demographics. This is a testament to the power of art to transcend time and culture, and to the dedication and precision of the artists who bring it to life.
