Why This Indie Brand Is Returning to Milan Fashion Week: A Leap of Faith
In the midst of a challenging fashion industry, where established brands and luxury players grapple with consumption slumps and retail chaos, the story of Lessico Familiare, an Italian indie brand, stands out. This brand, known for its sustainable ethos and quirky aesthetic, is making a bold move by returning to the runway during Milan Men's Fashion Week.
A Leap Towards Tradition
Lessico Familiare, which has been on the fringes of the fashion world, is now taking a leap towards a more traditional format. After seasons of unconventional events and ironic happenings, the brand will showcase its latest collection titled 'New Age' on January 17th at 4 p.m. CET at Istituto Marangoni's new campus in the historic Palazzo Turati.
A Pop Star's Influence
The title 'New Age' is not just a reference to the brand's evolution but also pays homage to a pop star. Founder Riccardo Scaburri explains, 'I saw a meme that read: 'I'm chasing what Madonna was feeling in that moment,' referring to the 'Ray of Light' era.' This connection to Madonna's iconic era of metropolitan spiritualism in the late '90s and early 2000s adds a layer of intrigue to the brand's new direction.
Balancing Nostalgia and the Future
Scaburri further elaborates, 'The title is an ironic reflection on the healing processes we've embarked on, the daily rebranding of our lives, yet also an opening to the future. We've always been melancholic and have always looked to the past. With this collection, we tried to balance nostalgia with a forward-thinking approach.'
A Flashy, Short-Lived Show
The brand's decision to return to the runway is a strategic one. Scaburri states, 'We wanted to chase a flash, an instant that isn't necessarily comprehensible. A wave of energy. That's why we chose to return with a fashion show: it lasts a short time, but if it overwhelms you, it stays with you forever.'
A School for New Ages
The choice of venue is symbolic. Scaburri says, 'We believe that the place where a 'New Age' can be born is school.' Istituto Marangoni's new location represents the education of designers, tailors, and creatives, and its courtyard, open to the street, symbolizes the birthplace of revolutions.
A Whiff of Rebellion
The event will have a rebellious edge, as the brand's approach to the format is described as 'always that of a guerrilla show,' with a focus on simplicity and minimal complications, including seating arrangements.
Unexpected Presentations
Lessico Familiare's presentations have always been unpredictable, from tongue-in-cheek dinners endorsed by Sunnei to fancy breakfasts at Le Progrès café in Paris with Forte_Forte. The brand's debut at Milan Fashion Week in June 2022 with a bridal-inspired collection paraded in the streets, followed by the co-ed 'Cocktail' range, showcased their unique approach.
A Whimsical Collection
The upcoming show will feature a collection that filters pop culture inspirations through the brand's whimsical lens. The casting will include friends and muses of the founders, showcasing a blend of pop culture references and Lessico Familiare's unique style.
Inspiring References
Scaburri teases inspirations ranging from 'Marta Marzotto in a caftan everywhere' to 'Orlando' with a Stanley Cup instead of a sword, all while staying true to the brand's froufrou nature and costume-like lexicon.
A Dictionary of Change
Scaburri emphasizes, 'Lessico is a bit like a dictionary, changing but recognizable. We've often been told to change key elements, but we haven't, and that's fine with us. It grows organically, aware of the industry but not following it.'
Challenges and Freedom
The brand's biggest challenge, according to Scaburri, is pragmatic needs like maintaining space and paying rent. However, the freedom to do 'everything we love without having to answer to anyone else' is a pro.
Navigating Without Objectives
Lessico Familiare's approach to goals is unique. Scaburri says, 'We don't have an ultimate goal. We like to navigate by sight, without objectives. We know what we don't want. We're achieving the best goals spontaneously.'
Collaborating with Film
The brand's recent collaboration with director Carolina Cavalli on costumes for her movie 'The Kidnapping of Arabella' at the Venice Film Festival showcases their interest in film collaborations, offering a different dimension and a chance to disconnect from the phone.
In conclusion, Lessico Familiare's return to Milan Fashion Week is a testament to their resilience and unique vision, blending tradition with a pop star's influence and a whimsical approach to fashion.
